Notes from the Old Town Night Bazaar

Postcard 1: The Dragon’s Gate

To: Ma and Pa (Singapore) From: Mei Ling

Hi Ma, Hi Pa! Arrived in Phuket today. The “Old Town” is so different from the beaches! The buildings are all “Sino-Portuguese” style—very colorful, like giant pieces of kueh lapis. I am staying in a small guesthouse on Thalang Road.

Tonight is the Sunday Night Market (Lard Yai). It is so crowded, lah! My ears are ringing from the music and my nose is confused by all the smells. I found a stall selling “Moo Ping” (grilled pork skewers). The smoke smelled like heaven. The girl serving was around my age. She saw my sketchbook sticking out of my bag and gave me an extra skewer for free! She said, “For the artist.” So nice, right?

Don’t worry, I am drinking plenty of water. Miss you guys!

Postcard 2: The Girl with the Charcoal Fingers

To: Ma and Pa From: Mei Ling

I went back to the same stall today. The girl’s name is Ananya. Her mother makes the best Moo Ping in the whole bazaar, I swear.

Ananya is so cool. While her mom flips the meat, Ananya sits on a tiny plastic stool and draws on the back of old cardboard soy sauce boxes. She doesn’t have fancy markers like mine, just a piece of charcoal from the grill! But Ma, her drawings are power. She drew the golden dragon statue at the public fountain, and it looked like it was going to fly off the paper.

I showed her my watercolor set. Her eyes went so big! I told her, “Tomorrow, I bring paper. We draw together.” She smiled—she has a gap in her teeth that makes her look extra friendly.

Aroi mak mak! (That means “very delicious” in Thai. I am learning!)

Postcard 3: The Language of Color

To: Ma and Pa From: Mei Ling

Today was the best. I sat behind the stall with Ananya. It was a bit “sian” because it was raining at first, but then the sun came out and everything looked shiny.

We didn’t talk much because my Thai is “half-past-six” and her English is just “okay-okay,” but we have the Art Language. I showed her how to use the “wet-on-wet” technique with watercolors. She taught me how to smudge charcoal to make shadows look like real smoke.

Her mom kept feeding me Khanom Buang (those crispy Thai crepes). I think I am turning into a crepe. Ananya drew a picture of me drawing her. I look a bit funny, but she caught the way my hair always gets messy in the humidity. I gave her my spare set of 12 colored pencils. She hugged them like they were gold bars.

Postcard 4: The Secret Wall

To: Ma and Pa From: Mei Ling

Guess what? Ananya took me to a secret spot behind the Soi Romanee alley. It’s a crumbling wall hidden by some bougainvillea flowers. She calls it her “Gallery.”

She has been taping her cardboard drawings there for months. It’s a history of the bazaar! There are drawings of the grumpy uncle who sells iced tea, the stray cat with the torn ear, and even the tourists with their big cameras.

I felt a bit sad today. I realized I have to leave in three days. I told her, “I go back Singapore soon.” She looked down and started drawing a bird. I think she is sad too. I want to do something special for her before I go.

Postcard 5: The Big Project

To: Ma and Pa From: Mei Ling

We are working on a “Masterpiece.” Ananya’s mom gave us a huge piece of wooden board that used to be a sign.

We are painting the whole Night Bazaar. I am doing the sky and the colorful buildings using my bright paints, and Ananya is adding the “soul” with her charcoal and pencils—the smoke from the grills, the wires hanging between poles, and the faces of the people.

Everyone who walks past the stall stops to look. One Auntie even tried to buy it! Ananya just shook her head and pointed at me. She said, “Friendship paper.”

Ma, I realized I don’t miss my iPad at all. My hands are stained blue and black, and I’ve never been happier.

Postcard 6: Goodbye (For Now)

To: Ma and Pa From: Mei Ling

Last night in Phuket. The bazaar was glowing. We finished the painting and hung it right next to her mom’s grill. It looks so “stylo,” Ma!

Ananya gave me a small gift. It’s a piece of charcoal wrapped in a banana leaf and a small drawing of a dragon and a lion (Singapore and Phuket) holding hands. I cried a little bit—don’t tell Pa, he will tease me!

I left her my big watercolor palette and my best brushes. She needs them more than me. She has so much talent, it’s “over the moon.” We swapped addresses. I told her I will send her more paper from Singapore.

See you at the airport tomorrow! I’m bringing back a box of Phuket pineapples for you.